Ricky's Tech Blog

Cobra iRadar Review

Ricky — Tue, 21 Jun 2011 17:22:44 +0000

I’ll admit, I occasionally break the law by speeding. I don’t generally like having a radar detector, but I do like having them for a long road trip. Last year, I bought the Escort 9500ix, and while it was a spectacular device, I thought it was a bit expensive ($500+) for what it could do, and I didn’t like that you have to have a subscription paid for each year for updates to their speed trap database. So, I eventually returned it and didn’t buy another.

This year, I decided to buy another radar, but I decided on a much cheaper one this time around. I purchased the Cobra iRadar after some reading. I bought it understanding that it’s not perfect, and that it has a ton of potential. I haven’t used it a lot, and I already have a lot of complaints. They are all items that can be fixed. Some are simple software bugs in the app. All my tests are done on my iPhone 4, or my iPad, but mostly the iPhone. I’m quite disappointed that there are no specifications for this device, as to EXACTLY what radar bands it is capable of detecting. Their web site just says it will detect “all radar and laser signals”. The only indication of exactly what it can detect, is in the app itself: X, K, Ka, VG-2, POP. Nothing related to laser detection.

I bought the radar and set it up in the parking lot of Best Buy. It paired right up with my phone without a single issue. I already had the app installed before I bought the device, so as soon as I opened the app, everything worked. Setup was literally 90 seconds. As I pulled out of the parking lot, I got my first warning. Right there was a cop with some radar. I also caught a speed trap on my way back to work. I don’t like that the blue light is on when paired with the phone. There needs to be some sort of indication that the detector is communicating with the app. This would be nice for having the app running in the background, and connecting to the radar from a pocket. This makes crowdsourcing work from a pocket.

After getting the device home, and really playing with it and the app, I started to find its problems. I have a simple K band radar gun at home that I used for some of my testing. When I pull the trigger on the gun, it can get speed within milliseconds. The radar takes at least 2 seconds to respond to my radar gun. However, I had it catch a cop using POP on the freeway, before I could see him. So it’s obviously got the capabilities.

My complaints are with the app itself. It’s nice, but far from perfect.

When receiving a radar alert, as soon as the signal disappears, so does the alert screen. A quick detection from a distant store disappears so fast that you don’t have time to mark it as false.

Even though you mark a location as false, it still makes the same amount of noise the next time it is seen. There’s no option to mute that specific alert. (i.e. a store, or a radar sign in your neighborhood)

The mute button on the radar alert screen of the phone, mutes the detector, but will not unmute it. The mute icon also does not reflect that it was touched, and that it has muted the sound. You must press the mute button on the detector to unmute.

It would be nice to have an option to only run in background when connected to the detector.

When on the map, every time you look at details for something, or leave the map, it turns auto-center-map back on, even if you turn it off. So every time you tap on a speed trap and look at details on one 100 miles away, it will recenter the map to your location when you return to the map.

When switching to City mode, the radar says “City, X”. Why the X?
-ANSWER: This means the detector will only beep once when detecting an X signal. Not sure why that needs to be said, but whatever.

A speed trap known to me is on the map, but at a speed of 65mph, the phone didn’t warn me soon enough of the trap. If they had been there and using laser, I would have been caught. Detection should be sooner at higher speed.

It would be nice for the map to work in landscape mode

It would be nice to be able to browse the map and see traps in locations other than within your current location radius, like on the route for a 2500 mile road trip. I am about to take a trip where a leg of it will not have any data access, and it would be nice for that data to be cached in the app until the next time it gets data back.

What happens when I’m driving where I don’t have internet access? Do speed traps that are already downloaded in the app, still detected?

Severe lack of documentation. There is nothing out there that explains the features of the app. While many are clear as day, some are not. I haven’t been able to figure out if crowdsourcing is actually implemented and working, or not. I don’t know what the purpose of marking an alert true/false is, even though I know what it’s supposed to be in theory.

UPDATE July 20, 2011

Just got back from a nice long trip through Colorado, Wyoming, Utah, Nevada and California. This radar detector is seriously awesome, though I did notice a couple of problems. I notice that compared to the Escort 9500, it’s not quite as sensitive, and therefore gives more realistic warnings of radar signals. The Escort would alert miles away from even the weakest signal, causing you to spend most of your time turning on and off the cruise control, or just ignoring the detector.

My trip was about 2500 miles, and I abused the speed limit the entire way. The iRadar detected every single cop I saw that was running a trap. And in most all cases, it warned me of the cop before I ever saw him. There was only one time that I saw the cop before he hit me with Laser.

I do have one issue with the detector now. It no longer talks to me to tell me what band it is alerting me to. Sure, I could memorize the sound, but I thought the idea was that the option to turn off voice is available in the app. Doesn’t matter what I toggle the option to, voice does not work the majority of the time. The first time I heard a VG-2 alert, I didn’t know what it was, because the detector didn’t tell me. But close to the end of my trip, one laser signal I got it actually said “laser” just like it’s supposed to. I will be calling Cobra about this issue.

Overall, for the price, I would highly recommend this device. Especially with its soon to come features.

Preventing SQL Injection with PHP and MySQL

Ricky — Mon, 02 May 2011 21:19:35 +0000

SQL injection is a huge issue. Make sure you protect your sites. It’s easiest to do when first building a project, because other items in your code can affect this method. If you use addslashes() anywhere before inserting a value from form data into the DB, then you will want to stop using that function. This function will also handle html forms that pass data in POST as arrays. For example:

In PHP, that comes out as
$_POST['values'][0] and $_POST['values'][1]

Using the mysql_real_escape_string() function that is built into PHP, it’s relatively easy to prepare a single value for entry into a SQL DB. This method makes it easy to process ANY 2 level array (i.e. a POST or GET array with arrays in it). Passing arrays one level deep, will work with this method. It’s easy to add on another level, as you can see:

Use this function:

function procformdata($var)
	{
		foreach($var as $i => $val)
		{
			if (is_array($val))
			{
				foreach($val as $i2 => $val2)
				{
					$val[$i2] = mysql_real_escape_string($val2);
				}
				$var[$i] = $val;
			}
			else
				$var[$i] = mysql_real_escape_string($val);
		}
		return $var;
	}

Then use these lines of code, to check your POST and GET data:
$_POST = procformdata($_POST); $_GET = procformdata($_GET);

Note that once you have run these methods, the data is ready for insert into a mysql database. If you want to display any of this data, certain characters will be escaped, so you may want to run removeslashes() on the data to display it after being processed by this function.

Google maps API KML/KMZ overlay images missing

Ricky — Wed, 27 Apr 2011 15:25:18 +0000

I’ve been doing a bunch of Google Maps API v3 development lately, and I ran into an issue when loading kml layers onto a map. Tracks and points would work great, but any images were coming back as a 404 error. After some research and log watching I discovered the issue. The images for a kml are stored inside a kmz (zipped kml) file. These images are referenced to via a special script at www.google.com/mapsatt or maps.google.com/mapsatt.

I found that the API was trying to call
“http://www.example.net/mapsatt?id=http://www.example.net/images/test.kmz&f=files/test.png”
instead of
“http://maps.google.com/mapsatt?id=http://www.example.net/images/test.kmz&f=files/test.png”

I found this article: http://notes.coldshore.com/google-maps-kmz-overlay-images-missing

I had a few problems with some KML files and some URL’s, so I found another way to do it:

Create an index.php script in a folder called “mapsatt” from the root of your web site. There’s only one line of PHP code necessary:

header(“Location: http://www.google.com/mapsatt?$_SERVER[QUERY_STRING]“);

Enjoy

1995 Toyota Tacoma HID retrofit

Ricky — Mon, 31 Jan 2011 20:04:43 +0000

I’ve had my 95 Tacoma for many years, and have been putting a lot of money into it lately to restore it. A couple years ago, I got the whole truck repainted black, and had all body damage fixed, and replaced the bumpers and interior carpet and other random items. I also upgraded the headlights to HID’s, but the headlight housings (standard 7×6 housing) were horrible, and didn’t spread the light the way I wanted it to. They also came with this “projector lens” gimmick inside them, which was worthless.

I found www.theretrofitsource.com by complete accident, and fell in love with their products. After a ton of research, I decided to buy their bi-xenon PNP kit (http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=178)with FX-R projectors, since I already had ballasts. This came with projectors, shrouds, 4300k bulbs, and adapters to hook up the D2S bulbs to my existing ballasts.

They started out like this:

I started by cutting open the housings (the glue was a silicone glue, so the oven bake trick would not work), then painting the inside of the housing black.

I then cut a significant portion of the back of the housing off, with a nice level cut

I bought a 4″ sewer pipe cap for a mounting template for the projector:

I cut the end off the cap, sanded it down, then cut a hole in it for the projector, using a cardboard template I had made.

I then mounted the projector inside the template, and checked the fit. I also trimmed the apollo shrouds so that they would fit the projector, and inside the housing. I painted everything flat black again.

Here, you can see what the projector looks like in the housing, before doing the actual mount.

Using some bolts, I mounted the projector to the template.

Final coat of flat black paint (upper housing looks dimpled because I had some paint issues, and had to sand a bit with the dremel)

I then fused the housing and template together with plastic epoxy putty. I also sealed the front glass back to the housing.

Here they are in the truck before putting the grille back on

Here’s the light pattern from the projectors (pre-adjustment):

Here’s the comparison of the light pattern, next to my 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution with factory HID’s. 25 feet away:

IMO, the cutoff of the Lancer, is better than the FX-R projectors. The cutoff is so hard and defined, rather than being soft and set a much different angle.

I’ve got a few more pics to add. I forgot to take pics of high beams, and of course, the finished product in the daylight. We just got a snowstorm that moved in, and now the truck is dirty as hell!

I plan on doing this same setup on my motorcycle (2008 Honda CBR600RR) in the near future.

The Apple Mac mini, and why you shouldn’t buy it

Ricky — Thu, 17 Jun 2010 16:29:57 +0000

I’ve been bashing my head for 10 days now, trying to get answers from apple about an issue with a new Mac mini I purchased. Now, I’m a techie. I come from the PC world. I’m not an idiot, and I’ve been doing this a really long time. I know my technologies, especially when it comes to something as simple as a SATA controller and its speed. As well as how to do the math to convert from bytes to bits and vice versa.

Within the Apple store, when configuring a mac mini, within the “learn more” link in the hard drive section, you come across this quote “All Mac mini models include standard Serial ATA hard drives with data transfers up to 300 megabytes per second” Now, if you’re a geek like me, you know that equals out to be about 2.4 gigabits per second. This is the theoretical limit of SATA II. If you were to look at the maximum of a SATA I controller, you’d see that it’s about 1.5 gigabit per second, or 131 megabytes per second.

Now that we have that out of the way, on to the problem.

I exchanged my 8 days old Mac mini for a brand new Mac mini 2010. In the system profiler, if you look at the SATA controller, in the window below you will see Link Speed, and Negotiated Link Speed. On my mac mini it is 3.0 gigabit link speed, and 1.5 gigabit negotiated link speed. Why? Because the hard drive in the Mac mini is a SATA I hard drive. I even called Hitachi to confirm this, AND Apple engineering has confirmed this. How can they get away with advertising it as something, then giving you something in the range of ‘half’? I’m waiting on a response from Apple about that.

Don’t buy a Mac mini. You’re not getting out of it what you should. And check any Mac you are about to buy, for any discrepancies between the Link Speed and Negotiated Link Speed, except optical CD/DVD drives. Most aren’t capable of those speeds anyway. Likely, I’m going to return this mac. I just know Apple isn’t going to fix it and make it right (replace the hard drive with a SATA II version), but I’m sure they’ll take the computer back and give me my money.Holy hell, and I was trying to give Apple a chance. I didn’t realize they hated me so much.

Apple iPad and the app store

Ricky — Wed, 28 Apr 2010 08:53:20 +0000

I recently decided to break down and buy my first apple product in a long time. I’m a PC, that’s for sure. I spend my days writing C# code, and designing windows applications. But I like what the iPad can be, especially with its great battery life. So yeah, I bought an iPad.

So far, great device. Remembering that there’s no way you can do flash with it, there’s a good number of apps already out there that make up for the loss of capability compared to a PC.

Being the geek that I am, I am constantly looking at the app store to see if there’s anything new. I’ve started to notice lately how unbelievably horrible the app store actually is. Today I went in and saw the new urbanspoon app on the top lists. It says it’s in the travel category. But browse to the travel category and look at all new apps and sort by release date, and there’s no new apps for the last 7 days. It makes no sense to me, especially from a programmers perspective. The other thing you can’t do is simply “view all” apps, and sort by whatever (i.e. release date, popularity, top grossing, etc). What’s wrong with that? I would love to sort by release date, and see all the apps released today. It doesn’t work that way.

However, I’ve turned to here: http://www.iphoneapplicationlist.com/Great reference for all applications for iphone and ipad. The only problem with it is that it is updated only once per day, so it seems.I tried to send apple support a simple email, but that’s not possible because they don’t have an “other” option when trying to contact support online. Pretty lame if you ask me.

UPDATE 6/22/2010: Apple has made several updates to the app store in the last couple months. They have added a bunch of ways to sort and filter apps. And an easy way to see the new daily apps. Great job Apple!

Why I hate the PS3

Ricky — Mon, 30 Nov 2009 15:13:24 +0000

I just recently purchased a PS3 after holding out for so long. I already own an xbox 360 and a Wii, but I purchased the PS3 because it was time to get a blu-ray player for my new TV. I figured it’d be the best option to just get a PS3, then I’d have all its extra capabilities.I pulled the PS3 out of the box, all excited to set it up and get it going, even though I had no games for it. I had purchased a blu-ray movie to test it out, so that was my first experience. I love how it has all the standard technologies you’d find in most computers/electronics these days (wifi, bluetooth, HDMI, standard USB plugs, etc), however this tends to hold it back in some ways.

First thing I do is plug in my controller, which is completely dead. Then I realize that the charging cord included is only 18″ long. How the hell am I supposed to sit in my couch and set up the console without the controller? And how do you expect me to sit 18″ from a 58″ TV? Then I noticed that there’s no charging indication when the console is off. There’s no info I can find that says whether or not it charges while the console is turned off. The 360 can’t charge unless it’s on either, which I think is a huge mistake! So, I let it charge for a bit before I dove in to set it all up.

Next comes the basic setup. When I first got it, I had an amp that didn’t support HDMI audio, and my new TV that did support HDMI. So of course I hooked it up to HDMI video, but then ran an optical cable to my amplifier for the audio. Come to find out that you actually have to set it up to output audio from multiple ports. What a pain. But ok, it works. With the 360, if you use HDMI, you can’t use optical audio, so it’s definitely a plus over the 360.

I went through all the cumbersome setup stuff, which I felt took far too long. I’m a techie, but damn were there ever a lot of things that it should have been able to set to defaults, or detect on its own. Then I loaded up PS Home, which I learned about long before it came out. Once I got in there and played around, I started noticing that my left thumb was killing me after only a few minutes. WTF? Then I looked closer and realized the difference between the PS3 controller, and the 360 controller. on the 360 controller, the d-pad and left stick is swapped. This means that on the 360 controller, your thumbs are in a more ergonomically correct position for typical game play. Since the left stick is generally your primary control (over the d-pad) it’s more comfortable to have it in the way the 360 controller is. Then I noticed that they basically changed nothing between the PS2 and PS3 controllers. Lame.ok, PS3 is all set up and ready to play with. So, I pop in a blu-ray and start playing it. Looks great, and works perfectly. It’s a little slow loading some of the stuff, but whatever. That’s cool. So I decide to take my Logitech Harmony remote upstairs to my computer to add the PS3 so that I can control it with my universal remote. So I add it to my remote and it informs me I’d need an extra device. WTF? Seriously? The PS3 doesn’t have a damn infrared port? Holy crap, what a failure. They tried to provide the latest technologies by using bluetooth for its remote control, but failed to add something that 99% of universal remotes use to control devices. INFRARED. Seriously, lame. To fix this problem I was going to have to spend $60 on an adapter that converted IR commands into bluetooth. That’s a new game for my PS3! I may have money, but I am no bottomless pit. The solution was to purchase the Nyko Blu-Wave remote control ($13 at Best Buy on clearance) that includes a USB Ir adapter, and remote control. This was easy to add to my harmony remote. The only down side is that Sony added no capabilities to turn on/off the PS3 with remote commands. Another big fat LAME. It’s like Sony wasn’t thinking when they designed this thing. Either way, I figure that if I’m watching a movie (when I’m going to use my Ir remote), I’m going to walk up to it to put in a disc anyway, so who cares about turning it on and off remotely.

The slot-load drive, compared to the one on the Wii, seems slow, cumbersome, unreliable, and noisy. Half the time it pulls the disc in halfway, then I have to help it along. Especially if it’s a netflix disc which has paper on the center portion of the disc. Inserting that same disc in the Wii returns zero issues (except of course that the Wii can’t read bluray/DVD). The Wii simply has a more reliable slot load mechanism. It’s faster, and doesn’t get stuck loading the disc, and doesn’t sound like a semi getting off the freeway.

The next day I decided to watch another blu-ray disc. With the console turned off, I inserted the disc. The Console turned on, booted up and was ready to go. Then I started searching in the video tab to find the movie, and it’s not there. So, I eject the disc, and pop in another. Still not there. Nothing. Now all of a sudden my blu-ray drive doesn’t work? So, I eject the disc, turn off the PS3, and turn it back on. Once booted up, I insert the disc, and it works fine. WTF? So I turn off the console, and turn it on using the slot load function to get it going. Sure enough, when you use the slot load function of the PS3, to power on the PS3, it will not read what is in the drive. I can’t confirm this with games since I don’t have any yet, but how lame that? What a huge bug that needs to be fixed.

Oh how I love my xbox 360. The built in Netflix playing, and all its extended xbox live features that Sony could never dream of. Netflix sent me the new blu-ray disc that supports netflix streaming, and I was severely disappointed. Compared to the xbox netflix player, the BD live version is severely lacking. Lame.

Can’t change my online username. That’s plain stupid. The only way is to create a new one, but they don’t let you because you already have one associated to an email address. Sony sucks

There’s more, but of course I can’t remember at this moment. I will add more as I remember it.

Verizon and their “4 times 3G coverage” commercials

Ricky — Mon, 19 Oct 2009 10:59:16 +0000

I’ve noticed that Verizon has started a new ad campaign stating that they have 4x the 3G coverage over AT&T. This is great and all, but I feel that it greatly targets customers who don’t know anything about what the term 3G means.

First, 3G means 3rd Generation. This has nothing to do with speed, or anything like that. It has to do with the generation of network technology used to make your cell phone work. The sad thing about the Verizon network, is that it’s running on CDMA, which is OLD technology from when the world was switching from analog to digital cellular. AT&T, on the other hand, is running a GSM network that is only about 5-6 years old in most areas. CDMA is at least two to 3 times as old, and can’t handle the data speeds that a GSM network can.

So, when Verizon says they have 4x the coverage, the thing they aren’t mentioning is that the speed is less than 1/5 the capability of a GSM 3G network. I have an AT&T 3G phone, and I ran a speed test on it the other day. I got about 1.5MB/sec. My co-worker has a verizon phone and when he runs a speed test, he gets around 155k/sec. It’s horribly slow. Like browsing the web on a 56k connection. Don’t believe the hype!!

Top this off with the fact that you CANNOT, and never will be able to use data and voice at the same time on a CDMA network, and GSM wins all around.

Go to your local Verizon store and ask a sales person to compare data speeds between them and AT&T. They probably won’t have any idea what they’re talking about, and will try to tell you that their network is better. They are confusing consumers.

mail() function in PHP fails after qmail install on RHEL

Ricky — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 16:57:11 +0000

I just set up a server of ours with qmail, using the qmail-toaster install. Everything works great. Pop accounts and imap, and receiving and sending mail works. However, I have two problems, and I’m wondering if they may be interrelated. The first is the big one1. when using the mail() function within php, via apache, the mail function fails. As we all know, there’s no error info from the php script, so I’m confused. However, the script, when executed via any user, on the command line “php mail.php” works great sending the mail. However, the same script does not work via apache. I’m SO lost about this, and my php apps are unable to send mail. I’ve checked permissions in every way I can think of, and set all associated items to 777 just to make sure it’s not a permissions problem. No difference. I also don’t see any errors in the qmail-send current log. And yes, all qmail processes are running. as far as I can see:

[root@www1 httpd]# qmailctl statauthlib: up (pid 28416) 995 secondsclamd: up (pid 29506) 0 secondsimap4: up (pid 28391) 995 secondsimap4-ssl: up (pid 28389) 995 secondspop3: up (pid 28399) 995 secondspop3-ssl: up (pid 28441) 995 secondssend: up (pid 28392) 995 secondssmtp: up (pid 28409) 995 secondsspamd: up (pid 28440) 995 secondssubmission: up (pid 28388) 995 secondsauthlib/log: up (pid 28426) 995 secondsclamd/log: up (pid 28429) 995 secondsimap4/log: up (pid 28403) 995 secondsimap4-ssl/log: up (pid 28405) 995 secondspop3/log: up (pid 28400) 995 secondspop3-ssl/log: up (pid 28390) 995 secondssend/log: up (pid 28408) 995 secondssmtp/log: up (pid 28395) 995 secondsspamd/log: up (pid 28404) 995 secondssubmission/log: up (pid 28428) 995 seconds[root@www1 httpd]#

2. When attempting to use qmailadmin via apache, I get this error in the apache logs:Quote:

[Mon Oct 05 17:31:18 2009] [error] [client x.x.x.x] (13)Permission denied: exec of ‘/usr/share/qmailadmin/index.cgi’ failed[Mon Oct 05 17:31:18 2009] [error] [client x.x.x.x] Premature end of script headers: index.cgi

Even though apache is running as the apache user, and that user does have proper permission to the qmailadmin/index.cgi link.Running RHEL 5 x86_64The Solution? Well, it seems as if I had SELinux enforcing, which was causing all of my issues. After I disabled it, everything started working just fine. Crazy.

Infinity Internet Co-location Services

Ricky — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 15:12:18 +0000

Holy hell, where do I start. A little over a year ago, we went searching for the perfect co-location facility in which to rent a cabinet for a few servers for our business. Because we were dealing with the adult industry, it was very important that we find a place that met our needs. We traveled to 4 cities (Portland Oregon, Vancouver Canada, Phoenix Arizona, and Las Vegas Nevada) and checked out 8 different facilities. After much consideration, we decided to choose Infinity Internet in Portland Oregon, for a multitude of reasons. One, they had a top notch facility that wasn’t ginormous, and we felt like one in a thousand, rather than one in a million. Also, its access to light rail via the airport was the biggest for me, being that I would be traveling there often. So, a couple of monthe later (August 2008) we moved into the facility. I shipped our servers out there, and installed them.

Unfortunately, after 10 months, the project didn’t take off like we wanted it to, and we decided to take it down until we could regroup, and finish focusing on a few other things in our business. After a long talk, I decided to contact Infinity Internet on 7/1/2009 about removing our servers. This was 45 days before our contract expired with them. Little did we know, our contract auto-renewed 60 days prior to expiration, and they were requiring us to pay the roughly $16k yearly bill, immediately. We tried to explain to them that we weren’t aware of the auto-renew clause, and that we had made an honest mistake. I dealt with their billing department for a few days, and they said they’d give us a break of some sort.

So, after several days of waiting, I finally got a response from them. They were requiring us to pay 75% of the annual cost! Holy fucking shit. 75% of $16k, and we would get NOTHING in return? My boss was pissed, and we decided to pull our servers ASAP. I traveled to Portland and packed everything up. While I was out there, I ran into the VP of sales. I had a quick talk with him about it, and he said he’d talk to their CFO and get back to me. Later that day the VP of sales called me back and said that he had negotiated a deal for us to pay 25% of the full year cost, or 3 months. That means we were still paying more than $4k, for absolutely nothing. All because we had been 15 days late giving our notice. Now, I could understand if we were 15 days away from contract expiration, but this makes NO sense to me, and doesn’t seem like a way to earn our business back. We paid CASH for the first year, up front, and our intention was to bring our business back to them once we were able to regroup and get our shit together. Well, these guys didn’t give a fuck about our potential future business, and decided to burn the bridge with us.

So, here I am writing this blog to try to save others from going through the headache we had to go through, and are still dealing with, with Infinity Internet. They are sneaky, and only give a fuck about money, and nothing else. Their sales people were nice enough to get us in the door, then stab us in the back to get the rest of the money from us.

Since we removed our equipment, Infinity Internet has now submitted our account to a collections company without even contacting us asking us to pay the full amount. What a scam!

DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH INFINITY INTERNET! And feel free to contact me if you have any questions about them.

Who would I recommend? A small, but reliable, facility here in Denver, Colorado called Red Rocks Datacenter. They are awesome, though quite small. If you’re looking for a TIER 4 datacenter, this isn’t place, but they are TIER 3.